If you have a vertical modular washing machine, you may notice that it doesn’t respond after pressing the start button. One of the reasons to explain the problem may have to do with the lid switch and lid lock assembly. Whether the problem is specifically with the lid switch or the lid lock, it needs to be carefully diagnosed with the help of a professional appliance repair service technician. That is necessary to identify the exact cause of the problem since the symptoms are similar.
The purpose of a lid switch/lock assembly
The lid lock assembly which contains the lid switch and lid lock is meant for safety when operating vertical modular washing machine models. The main purpose of the lid switch is to detect when the washing machines lid is open so that the washer won’t start until the lid is safely closed. In addition to that safety measure is a lid lock that safely locks the lid during the spin cycle. That way the spinning parts of the washer cannot possibly hurt anyone operating the washer. Only a VMW type of washing machine needs a lid lock because it doesn’t include any braking mechanism and only comes to a stop within up to 30 seconds. On the other hand, direct drive washing machine models have brakes to stop almost instantly, so they don’t include any lid locks.
Possible symptoms for lid lock assembly problems
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Washer won’t start running to initiate a spin cycle
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Lid lock light won’t turn on or it keeps flashing
A good indication that the lid switch or the lid lock may not be correctly working shows with the lid lock light flashing. If the lid switch can’t detect that the washer lid is closed, then the washing machine won’t start a spin cycle. The problem may therefore be solved by replacing the lid switch or the lid lock after carrying out some tests for troubleshooting. This is important because sometimes even though the lid lock light won’t indicate it, the lid lock may still be perfectly working except that the electronic control board won’t get a signal from the lid lock switch and will not start the spin cycle.
Testing the lid lock mechanism
Remember to check if the lid lock strike is broken or not before you start testing the lid lock. The lid lock in a washing machine hooks onto a lid lock strike in order to lock the lid safely. Also keep in mind that if someone forced the lid to open while it was still locked, that has probably internally broken the locking mechanism and the solution is to have the lid lock replaced.
In order to start testing the lid lock mechanism you have to disconnect power from the washing machine and access the control board.
Start by removing the screws holding the back panel right behind the control panel. Then from the front side of the control panel, insert a putty knife right in between the bottom side of the control panel and the washer lid. That should help to release the clips holding the control panel so that it can be set free for removal. That in turn should give you access to the electronic control board behind the control panel. You will then be able to locate the wire harness, a plug that has four wires in different colors; red, white, blue, and yellow.
First you have to do the lid switch test for continuity. Do this while the lid is down and test for the continuity across the white wire and the blue wire. If there is no continuity, then you will have to replace the lid lock.
The other test is for the lid lock solenoid and this includes testing for continuity across the yellow and the white wires. Your multimeter should read between 85 to 155 ohms of resistance. But in case you don’t get that, then it means you should replace the lid lock.
You will not need to test the lid lock switch but you can know if it is defective if the lid lock is working without the lid lock light illuminating. In that case, the electronic control board will not be able to start the spin cycle.
Replacing the lid switch/lock assembly
In order to replace the lid lock, you have to start by disconnecting power to the washing machine and pull it away from the wall. Make sure to shut off the water valves then remove the screws holding the top back panel behind the control panel. Also remove the wiring harness cover. Go back to the front side of the washer and pull the top panel forward about half an inch before tilting it upwards only about quarter an inch, then pushing it backwards about quarter an inch also. It should now be released from the brackets. Once it’s free you can now tilt it all the way up until you have access to the entire lid lock assembly for removal and replacement.
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